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Unexpectedly delicate--and deeply artichoke-like. This unusual soup is good both hot and cold--but particularly hot, I think, when cold winds are blowing and these sunchokes start showing up in the market. Serve to 4 people as a complex first course.

• 1 pound Jersualem artichokes (or "sunchokes")
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
• salt and white pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

Peel the sunflower rhizomes and slice them thinly. Put them in a medium saucepan with the onion and stock--bring to a boil and simmer, covered, about 30 minutes. Puree in a blender, solids first, then pour back into the saucepan. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir in the cream, and reheat. When ready to serve, ladle into individual bowls. Pour 2 Tablespoons of cream in the middle of each bowl and swirl in a figure eight. Top with minced cilantro or parsley.