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Thick and bursting with the bounty of the harvest. Sweet and aromatic, and pretty to look at too. Thanks to Jerry Newman for the inspiration. Serve hot to 4 people as a meal.

• 4 Tablespoons butter
• 1 medium onion, cubed
• 1 medium fennel bulb, cubed
• 2 garlic cloves, cut into chunks
• 3 Tablespoons flour
• 6 cups fish or seafood stock
• 1 bay leaf
• dashes of hot pepper sauce, to taste
• 4 waxy red potatoes, unpeeled and cubed
• 1 pound salmon fillet, skin removed (in one smooth slice with a boning knife, holding on to one side of the skin and cutting away from that side) and cut into bite-size pieces
• 2 ears fresh corn, cut off the cob
• 1/2 cup chopped parsley
• 1 cup heavy cream
• salt and pepper, to taste

Garnish: minced fennel fronds

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat, stir in the onion, fennel, and garlic, cover, and sweat for 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and let cook on low for a minute or two. Stir in the stock and let thicken a bit. Add the bay leaf, hot pepper sauce, and potatoes, cover, and let cook until the potatoes are barely tender, about 10 minutes. Add the fish, corn, and parsley, partially cover, and let simmer 10 more minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Stir in the cream, season to taste with salt, pepper, and more hot pepper sauce. Bring just to a boil.

When ready to serve, ladle into bowls and garnish with the minced fennel fronds.