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This savory soup is just scrumptious, especially with the unexpected counterpoint of its cool, tart garnish. Easy and fast to make, it's a perfect lunch or light supper on a raw, wet day...very much like a rich and filling tart, but more so. Serve hot to 4 people.

• 4 Tablespoons butter
• 1 pound leeks, white part only--finely shredded
• 1/2 pound mushrooms, roughly chopped
• 3 cups vegetable stock
• 1 cup milk
• 1/2 pound potatoes, peeled and chopped into a small, even dice
• 3 ounces Stilton cheese

Garnish: Mix 4 Tablespoons of horseradish and a finely chopped gherkin pickle into 4 Tablespoons of sour cream and chill. Finely mince a little fresh parsley as a final topping.

Melt butter in a large saucepan, then saute the leeks and mushrooms--cooking gently for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetable stock, milk, and potatoes, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

When ready to serve, crumble in the Stilton cheese and stir well for a minute or two. Ladle into bowls. Top each serving with a heaping spoonful of the pickle-horseradish cream and a fine mince of parsley.