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Here's to Grover, my server wizard, who houses this website and who has met all my not-so-smart questions and requests with infinite patience and humor. Thank you, Grover. I think this rich and visual vegetarian brew--based on a peppery tomato soup of the Tarascan Indians (Michoacan, Mexico)--begins to approach my take on your own complexity and love of art. Serve hot to 6-8 people who aren't afraid of hot chile peppers! It's good as a light lunch or substantial first course.

• 2 Tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, mashed then lightly chopped
• 2 red peppers, chopped
• 1 1-pound can of dark red kidney beans (with juice)
• 1 cup fresh or canned tomatoes, chopped
• 4 cups vegetable stock
• 1 6-ounce can of tomato paste
• 2 large dried ancho chilies, soaked in hot water, seeded, then cut into thin strips that can easily fit on a soupspoon
• 1 teaspoon oregano, crushed between your palms
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• salt, to taste

Garnish: 1 cup finely grated smoked cheese (cheddar or edam) beaten with 1 cup sour cream; finely minced cilantro; big tortilla chips

In a large saucepan, saute the onion, garlic, and red pepper in oil until the onion is just beginning to brown.

While vegetables are cooking, puree the kidney beans with their juice and with the tomatoes in a blender til smooth.

When the onions are done, pour in the stock, puree, tomato paste, ancho chilies, oregano, cumin, and black pepper. Stir well, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 45 minutes--stirring occasionally. Season to taste with salt.

When ready to serve, grate the cheese and beat it into the sour cream. Mince the cilantro. Then ladle soup into flat soup bowls. Spoon the cheese-cream thickly in a cross shape (for Grover's patience) across each bowl--sprinkle with cilantro--and stick one tortilla chip in the center. Pass a bowl of tortilla chips separately.

Thanks again, Grover!