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Substantial and aromatic--also great looking. Serve hot to 4 people as a hearty meal with lots of bread and salad. Did I tell you that "chowder" is an Americanization of the French word for cauldron, chaudiere?

• 1/4 lb. bacon, coarsely chopped
• 2 Tablespoons butter
• 4 shallots, thinly sliced
• 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced
• 2 teaspoons thyme
• 2 potatoes, peeled and diced
• 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
• salt and pepper
• 3 cups fish stock
• 3 cups milk
• 3 cups cauliflower florets
• 1 and 1/2 lbs. sea bass fillet, cut into pieces
• 1/4 cup minced green onions, white part only

Fry bacon in a large saucepan over medium-low heat until it's just beginning to brown. Remove and reserve--and pour off all by 2 Tablespoons of fat. Add 2 Tablespoons of butter, then gently saute shallots, onion, and thyme until the onion is tender. Add potato, tomato, salt, and pepper, and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add stock, milk, and cauliflower, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer about 20 minutes. Season to taste.

When ready to serve, add bass and the reserved bacon and simmer for about 3 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Stir in the white part of the green onion, then ladle into bowls. Top each with a chip of butter and a sprinkling of the green onion.