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A smooth, heady first course with a whiff of licorice; serve hot or cold to 6 people.

• 1 15-oz. tin of tomatoes, chopped, with juice
• 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock
• 2 cups fennel, chopped, reserving lacy tops
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup onion, chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 bay leaf
• pinch of hot red pepper flakes
• 1/8 teaspoon sugar
• 2 Tablespoons tomato paste

Mix tomatoes and juice, stock, chopped fennel, wine, onion, garlic, salt, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, and sugar in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 45 minutes. Add tomato paste and boil hard for a few minutes to concentrate flavors. Puree, then press through a sieve, discarding solids.

This soup can be served either hot or cold. If you're serving it hot, reheat, ladle into bowls, then stir in 1/2 teaspoon of anisette or pernod into each bowl and top with a lacy fennel frond.

If you're serving the soup cold, season a little more highly, then chill thoroughly in the refrigerator. When ready to serve, stir in 1/2 teaspoon of anisette or pernod into each bowl and top with a lacy fennel frond. You might also chop some raw fennel into a fine dice and sprinkle into each serving, to give some crunch to it.