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Release date: 12/28/2004.

You'll find this recipe in it, From AN EXALTATION OF SOUPS,
copyright © 2004
by Patricia Solley,
Published by Three Rivers Press.

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So you're feeling fat...or blue...or just plain beat; in a word, feeling sorry for yourself. This is the soup for you--fast, comforting, stomach calming. Jackie Cognigni of Mt. Holly, New Jersey, recommends adding grating lemon zest to the broth as it starts to simmer. If you turn up the Verdi, all will be right with the world. Serve this traditional Italian soup hot to yourself and maybe one other soulmate.

Garnish: a piece of basil, parsley, or crossed chives, just for looks, and more Parmesan on the side.

Bring the stock to simmer in a saucepan. Then, in a separate bowl, beat the egg with a fork and continue beating as you add the cheese and bread crumbs--and finally, a half cup of the simmering stock.

Bring the remaining stock to nearly a boil, scrape in the egg mixture, and whisk it feelingly, even emotionally, with a fork for 3-4 minutes. When you stop beating, let the soup come just barely to a boil--its creaminess will then break into plump, lacy custards. Serve immediately, with an extra sprinkling of Parmesan topped by a single piece of herb. Sit down with it. Breathe it in deeply. Fast forward to Rigoletto's last aria over the body of Gilda. I definitely think you deserve some good Italian bread, a couple olives, and a glass of wine too.