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Richard Tavis of San Francisco swears by the buttermilk option and suggests a couple jolts of hot pepper sauce (Tabasco) to set off the crab.
Crab and Corn Chowder
This is one great meal--thick, creamy, and rich, with the white of crab and potatoes contrasted with the yellow corn and green celery leaves. It's simple and quick to make, immensely satisfying, and quite spectacular as company food. Serve hot as a meal to 4 people...or as a substantial first course to 8.
Garnish: chopped celery leaves
Melt butter and saute onion and celery. Sprinkle with flour and heat, stirring, until bubbly. Stir in pureed corn and stock, bring to a boil, and whisk until thickened. Add the potatoes and simmer 15 minutes until the pototo is tender. When 15 minutes from serving, stir in cream or buttermilk, crab, and corn and season with salt and pepper. Bring just to boil, then lower heat and simmer 5-10 minutes. Ladle into bowls and garnish with chopped celery leaves.