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Easy to put together once you've got the fish sauce and cellophane noodles, this makes you feel good just smelling it--it's light, healthy, digestible, and interesting. Those cellophane noodles are just too cool--there but not there, slippery but substantial. Serve hot in large soup bowls to 6 as a substantial first course or a light meal.

• 8 cups chicken stock, or Vietnamese spiced chicken stock
• 2 Tablespoons nuoc mam
• 2 Tablespoons lemon juice
• 6 green onions, slivered--with white and green parts separated
• 1 and 1/2 cups cooked chicken, slivered
• 6 ounces cellophane noodles

Garnish: 2 cups bean sprouts and 1/4 cup cilantro

Chop up the cellophane noodles, then cover with cold water. After 30 minutes, drain. They'll still be stiff, but they're ready to be finalized in the hot broth.

In a large saucepan, pour in the stock, nuoc mam, lemon juice, and white slivers of the green onion. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain out the scallions.

When ready to serve, divide the chicken and noodles among the soup bowls, then ladle the broth over them. Garnish with bean sprouts and cilantro, and serve immediately--ideally with chopsticks and ceramic spoons.