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Possibly the most refreshing and beautiful summer soup you can find, not to mention lo-cal. It gleams like a jewel, slides down the throat coldly, and yet is robust and robustly flavored--very savory before roasted or barbequed meats. Serve cold to 4 as a first course.

• 1 cup red beets, peeled and chopped
• 2 cups water
• 1 and 1/2 cups vegetable or beef stock
• 1 envelope unflavored gelatin, dissolved in 1/3 cup heated water
• 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
• 1/8 teaspoon celery seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon dried dill weed, crushed between your palms

Garnish: yoghurt, fresh chives or dill sprigs, 4 slivers of lemon

Cooked the peeled and chopped beets in the water until tender, then remove and reserve them. Add the stock, vinegar, celery seeds, and dill to the beet broth, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer on low for 10 minutes. Strain through coffee filters and return to the saucepan.

Mix the gelatin mixture into the broth and stir to dissolve completely. Add beets, cover, and chill until syrupy. Stir well, cover again, and chill until firm.

When ready to serve, break up the mixture with a spoon, then ladle into small cups. Spoon yoghurt into each cup, sprinkle with the fresh herb, and spear a lemon sliver into the top.